We stated driving towards Wakhan Valley, which routes via many side valleys reveal stunning views of the 7000m peaks of the Hindu Kush (Killer of Hindus) range, marking the border with Pakistan. Marco Polo travelled through the valley in 1274. The Tajikistan side is also the perfect gateway to the Afghan Wakhan.
We stopped by a Far far away lake and a cold lake before reaching a check point. I think the cold lake is Yashil-Kul (Green Lake, 3734m), a surreal turquoise lake framed by ochre desert. At the check point, I saw the bribery money fold in our driver's passport and then we waited about 15 minutes for the driver to negotiate the actual bribery amount so the guards would not harass us. This is one of the reasons that the tour is expensive. I heard that the guards fabricate "environmental tax" on self-driving tourists, yet leave alone "poor" cyclists.
We rested at a beautiful guest house in Langar, a green oysis situated where the Pamir and Wakhan Rivers join to form the Pyanj, marking the start of Afghanistan’s upper Wakhan, or Sarkhad region. The guest house has a colorful garden, serves food with fresh hurts from the garden, westerns toilet and shower. The Germany Embaassdor happened to stay in the same guest house with us tonight. Another stary night, yet seeing from the beautiful garden instead of a dry dessert the night before. Quite a contrast.
It’s an excellent base to visit sur- rounding sites. For a half-day hike, hire a local guide (US$5) for the hour-long walk uphill (500m vertical ascent) to a collection of over 6000 petroglyphs. The village jamoat khana is easily recognisable by its colourful wall murals. Across the road is the mazar of Shoh Kambari Oftab, the man credited with bringing Ismailism to Langar. There are ru- mours that the border with Afghanistan here will open soon.
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